Kalsa evokes contradictory feelings. If you start walking from the train station, whichever way you go, the first thing you will see is littered immigrant neighborhoods: to the right — Chinese, straight ahead — Arab. That’s why I recommend entering Kalsa from the seaport side or from Quattro Canti — then you get to the beautiful sights of the neighborhood, after which it’s a little easier to accept its dysfunctional suburbs.
The area is bounded by the Foro Italico promenade and three large straight streets: via Lincoln (running from the station to the sea, now a mini-chinatown), via Maceda (from the station to the Quattro Canti), via Vittorio Emanuele (from the Quattro Canti to the port). The name «Kalsa» comes from the Arabic for «chosen one» — in this area an Arab Emir built a fortified citadel for his family, of which nothing remains now.
The second name of the neighborhood is Tribunali: during Spanish rule, the palace of Chiaramonte housed the courts of the Inquisition, from which the new name is derived.
If you decide to choose a hotel in Kalsa, I recommend choosing a location away from the train station. The best locations are Piazza Marina, Porta Felice or Quattro Canti if you want a fun night out.
Quattro Canti.
In Palermo, all roads converge on the Quattro Canti, or «Four Corners», the unofficial name given to Piazza Vigliena on all maps and in guidebooks.
The square was formalized in the early 17th century, after the Via Maceda had been laid out. The Quattro Canti essentially completed the division of the old town into 4 districts. Via Maceda here crossed the oldest street of the city, Cassaro (now Via Vittorio Emanuele). The four facades of the corner buildings are decorated almost identically, in the same Baroque style: in the lower niche there is a fountain representing the seasons; in the middle one of the four important Sicilian kings, and above it the patron saint of the neighborhood that begins behind it.
Two of the city’s main pedestrian arteries converge on the square. It is always very lively, with musicians playing.
Pretoria Fountain (Fontana della Vergogna)
Just behind the Quattro Canti is the first landmark of Calsa and at the same time one of the main attractions of the whole of Palermo: the Pretoria Fountain.
The huge and majestic fountain has a second name — the «Fountain of Shame». According to one legend, this name was given to it by the nuns from the monastery opposite because of the large number of nude figures in the sculpture. According to another, the name appeared in the XVIII–XIX centuries, when for the citizens the fountain symbolized the corrupt authorities of the city — their main building just overlooks the square to the fountain.
The structure was built between 1552 and 1555 for the Florentine residence of Don Luigi de Toledo, brother of the ex-viceroy of Naples and Sicily. However, in 1581 he was forced to sell the sculptural creation to the city of Palermo to get out of debt. And for the government of Palermo, they needed this fountain to surpass another masterpiece fountain — in rival Messina. To transport the huge structure from Florence to Palermo to Piazza Pretoria, it was split into 644 pieces, which were then reunited again.
Centuries and World War II left it in a dismal state, but it was restored in the early twentieth century.
The fountain consists of 3 bowls with sculptures of animal heads, nymphs, monsters, mythical heroes and other characters. The center with the sculpture of Bacchus is reached by 4 bridges, symbols of the rivers of Palermo.
Locals joke that the fountain puts people in a trance: tourists walk around it in circles for a long time, looking at every detail. It’s a pity, but the fountain is enclosed by a fence and there is no water in it — with water it would be even more impressive.
Chiesa di San Niccolò dei Greci or La Martorana (The Church of San Niccolò del Greci)
The church «La Martorana» has 3 names at once, it was built according to the Eastern Orthodox canon and in the course of its history held services according to various Christian rites. Its architectural ensemble combines several styles: Baroque, Byzantine, Arabic and Norman.
The temple was built in the early 11th century under the name Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio (Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio). At the end of the same century the convent of Martorana was built near it. At the beginning of the XV century the church was given to the convent, and then another name was attached to it — La Martorana. The official name today is San Nicola del Grechi. This name was given to it in the XVI century, and although it alludes to the «Greek», i.e. Byzantine canon, in fact the church belongs to a community of Sicilian Albanians, and their rites are a cocktail of Latin and Eastern church canons.
The temple is worth a visit to see:
- Exquisite 4-tier Romanesque campanella with beautiful windows, wide arches, geometric patterns and openwork cornice, aspiring to the heights.
- Byzantine mosaics from the 12th century — images of saints on a golden background.
- Greek iconography — the entire eastern side is decorated with the faces of the saints, apostles and the scene of the Annunciation, and on the opposite side the continuation of this subject — the Presentation of the Lord.
- The famous fresco is the coronation of King Roger II by Jesus Christ (not the Pope, as was customary). It is believed that the image of the king was painted from life.
The temple is open to the public from April to September from 8:00 to 13:00 and from 15:30 to 19:00, from October to March until 17:30. Admission is 2 €.
San Cataldo Church (San Cataldo)
San Cataldo is another striking example of Sicilian architecture, with a mix of Arab, Norman and Byzantine styles. The church was founded as a private church in the courtyard of the castle and was built from 1154 to 1161. In 1182 William II the Good donated the castle and the church to the Monastery of Monreale, at which time San Cataldo became a parish.
During 1882—1885 the church was thoroughly restored and opened for public viewing — for this purpose the castle, which visually covered the church, was even demolished, and all late additions were removed and the original appearance was restored.
San Cataldo is immediately visible — it stands out with 3 domes, which are usually seen on mosques. The parapet of the roof is decorated with teeth in the Arabic style. The main altar and the inlaid floor have survived from the Middle Ages.
Palazzo Mirto (Palazzo Mirto)
Palermo has a huge number of palaces with preserved interiors where tourists are allowed. The price of admission is always around 10 €. Among these palaces one of the most famous is Palazzo Mirto. It is not just a museum, but an aristocratic house, where all the details of the interior and life of previous centuries remained. The first mention of the palazzo dates back to the 12th century, but in the course of history it underwent many rebuildings, changes and restorations. The palace was the residence of the Filangeri family until the end of the twentieth century.
The tour of the Mirto Palace is conducted by the owners of the house. For an hour they lead the tourist like a guest through the halls and tell about the details: moldings and sculptures, tapestries and paintings, silk wall decorations, a large library and a Chinese salon in black lacquer.
- The museum is open Tuesday to Friday 09:00 -19:00, Monday is a day off.
- The entrance fee is 6 €.
- Detailed information on the Palazzo Mirto page.
Church of Santa Maria dello Spasimo (Santa Maria dello Spasimo)
A must-see place in Palermo that few tourists reach is a temple that was never completed: the church of St. Mary «fainting», or «spasimo» — in the late Middle Ages, the word «spasimo» referred to the unbearable pain experienced by Mary during Christ’s ascent to Golgotha.
The story of the construction of the Church of Maria dello Spasimo is a story of unsuccessful project management. The land for construction was donated to the monks by a local patron of the arts with the condition that the church would be built within 6 years, but the project of the monastery turned out to be so grandiose that not only was there not enough money for its construction — not even the donated land was enough, the missing plot was donated by the owner of the adjacent estate. And later, because of the threat of Turkish attack, it was necessary to strengthen the city walls, for this purpose they demolished part of the already built buildings of the complex: the bell tower, cells and other premises. The construction actually stopped, but the monks sold the premises to the city and left them only in the XVIII century.
For this church, Raphael painted a picture of Jesus carrying a cross, which is now in the Prado in Madrid and is known as Spasimo di Sicilia. Interestingly, Raphael painted it for the chapel in which he himself wanted to be buried.
The unfinished monastery has been a theater, warehouses, a hospital, an isolation ward for plague patients, an asylum for beggars, and a hospital for prostitutes. Now it is a jazz school and concert hall.
Church of La Magione (Chiesa della Magione)
A stone’s throw away from Spasimo, in a small garden behind a beautiful baroque gate hides a landmark with an equally interesting fate. This church is quite small, but it is noticeably different from the surrounding buildings — it is built in the Arab-Norman style. In 1150—1190, when the Arabs had already left the city, Arab masons built a Christian temple on the site of the former mosque by order of the new authorities, so the architecture of the church is recognizably Arab, although it housed a monastery of the Catholic order of Cistercians. The church was later taken over by the Teutonic Knights, who gave it the name of the Holy Trinity, rebuilt it extensively, expanded the grounds and added a hospital for pilgrims who traveled through Sicily to the Holy Land.
Arabian motifs are unmistakable in the exterior. The interior is believed to have been once very rich, but is now rather ascetic. La Maggione is primarily impressed by the age of the structure itself, its columns, lancet arches and characteristic windows. Over the centuries, the building was damaged several times during wars, but in the XIX century the temple as much as possible returned to the appearance that it had in the XII century. The inner courtyard of the church is also open for visits, it is small and cozy.
The church now often hosts christenings and weddings, and has the status of a minor basilica — a middle status between a cathedral and a local church.
- Open 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday through Saturday, 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. Sundays and holidays.
- Admission to the church is free, to the cloister is 2 €.
- The church’s website
Piazza Marina and Giardino Garibaldi (Garibaldi Garden)
A substantial part of La Calsa was once under water — ancient Greek troops used to sail ships into the area where the palaces now stand. Piazza Marina was also completely under water until the fourteenth century and was the bottom of the bay. When this place turned into a swamp, they decided to drain and beautify it.
In the Middle Ages, the square was used for jousting tournaments, theatrical and puppet shows, and executions. Today it is home to the Garibaldi Monument and Garden and the Palazzo Chiaramonte. On Sundays, a spontaneous market spreads out at the foot of the palace and around the garden, where you can buy everything from old books to antique furniture.
The central part of the square is taken up by a garden, with palaces and churches dotted around the perimeter. The Garibaldi Garden covers almost 1 hectare, with busts of historical figures, the Garraffo Fountain, a 300-year-old Manioloides ficus and magnolias. Entrance is free, so you can stroll under the magnolias' crowns and sit in their cool shade. The Garraffo Fountain (Fontana del Garraffo, translated as «abundance of water») was erected in 1698 in the marketplace, but in 1862 it was moved to the garden. The Baroque sculpture depicts the goddess of abundance sitting on an eagle and fighting a hydra.
Porta Felice and Foro Italico
A monumental Baroque and Renaissance gate separates Palermo’s historic center and seafront. The gate was built in 1581 at the same time as a huge lawn — it was a place for the aristocracy of the XVII–XVIII centuries to walk.
The gate is named after the wife of the then Viceroy of Sicily. This is where the ancient Via Cassaro ends and the harbor area begins.
What else to see in Kalsa
Closer to the port in the Kalsa neighborhood, there are several major museums at once:
- Palazzo Chiaramonte-Steri was built as the residence of the Viceroy of Sicily, later it housed the courts of the Inquisition and now a museum.
- Palazzo Abatellis is a former palace, monastery and now a regional art museum.
To get around the interesting places in Calsa without going to the big museums (Palazzo Mirto, Abatellis and Chiaramonte), allow at least 4 hours. If you want to visit a museum, I recommend that you allocate a whole day to Calsa. Plan your itinerary so that you can relax in the shade of the Garibaldi Gardens or Villa Giulia.
If there’s any energy and time left, La Calce has a few other interesting places to visit.
Palermo Botanical Garden (Orto Botanico di Palermo)
The Botanical Gardens are already outside the boundary of the Kalsa district, but belong to it, as the main entrance is on Via Lincoln. Here you can take a break from museums, art galleries, monumental temples and the hustle and bustle of Palermo. On the territory of 10 hectares there are various trees, shrubs and flowers — about 12000 plants in total. It was created by the Academy of Royal Sciences in 1779 for the cultivation and study of medicinal plants, but from 1795 it became public.
In the botanical garden you can stroll through green alleys, relax by the pond surrounded by sculptures, and visit:
- Greenhouses with exotic specimens.
- Calidarium and Tepidarium are special rooms where plants from hot and dry climates are housed.
- A herbarium of 6,000 m2.
- Aquarium with 24 zones for different types of flora.
- Greenhouses and greenhouses.
The garden is open from 9:00 to 17:00 every day. From May to August — until 20:00. Ticket price is 6 €. Details on the website of the botanical garden.
Museo delle Maioliche (Stanze al Genio)
The Sicilian Tile Museum is housed in a noble house called Palazzo Torre Piraino. It contains a collection of ceramics and majolica from palaces and buildings throughout the south of Italy.
The house-museum is a private apartment where the collector himself lives. On the walls of 8 rooms there are about 5000 majolica and other ceramic objects used during the XV–XX centuries.
- Duration of the tour is 40 min.
- Museum hours are Monday through Friday at 4:00, 4:40, 5:20 p.m., Saturday and Sunday at 10:00, 10:40, 11:20. Monday is a day off.
- It is possible to book a different time for a group tour.
- The tour is available in English and Italian.
- The full price of the tour is 9 €.
- Detailed information on the museum’s website.
Museo internazionale delle marionette Antonio Pasqualino (Museo internazionale delle marionette Antonio Pasqualino)
One of the famous symbols of Palermo are the puppi, or marionettes. That is why the Antonio Pasqualino Marionette Museum, founded in 1975, should be located in Palermo. The museum has about 3,500 puppets on display. Pasqualino collected his collection all over the world, and later he even founded the Morgana Festival, dedicated to puppi. It is held annually in November. In 2001, UNESCO added the pupi to the list of Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible World Heritage of Humanity.
- The museum is open Monday through Saturday from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm, and until 7:00 pm during the summer months. Sundays and holidays are weekends.
- The ticket price is 5 €.
- Advance reservations 24 hours in advance are required.
- More information on the museum’s website.
