Albergheria is the old name of the Palazzo Reale district. The neighborhood got its modern shape in 1601, when the new Via Maceda crossed Cassaro, the oldest street of the ancient city (now Via Vittorio Emanuele). The intersection of the streets formed a separate landmark, the Quattro Canti, the «four corners» that crown the 4 districts of Palermo’s historic center. Albergenia occupies the quarter between the Quattro Canti, Palazzo Normanni and the train station.
Where to start getting to know Palermo is not a question. The answer to it is so obvious that for many tourists who come to the city for just a few hours, all acquaintance with it immediately ends. It is the northwesternmost point of the Albergeria: here is the royal residence — Palazzo Normanni with the famous Palatine Chapel, here is the beautiful gate of Porta Nuova, the elegant park Villa Bonani, and opposite is the Cathedral (it belongs to the Monte di Pietà district, which I will tell you about separately).
Porta Nuova (Porta Nuova)
«New Gate» appeared on this site in the 15th century, but a century later, when Emperor Charles V entered the city through it after his victory over Tunisia, the Senate of Palermo decided that this great event could not be associated with a simple gate — and the century-old structure was rebuilt in a more luxurious form.
From here begins Cassaro, the oldest street in Palermo, today’s Via Vittorio Emanuele, which leads directly to the sea and ends at the Porta Felice gate.
Palazzo dei Normanni (Norman Palace) and Cappella Palatina (Palatine Chapel)
Palazzo Normanni is unique in that it is the oldest royal residence in Europe. The first mention of the palace dates back to the IX century, when Palermo came under the rule of the Arabs, who built their fortress called the Palace of the Emirs on the ancient ruins. In the XI century the city was conquered by the Normans and set up a bastion there. King Roger II created a full-fledged royal palace with towers, one of which has survived to our time, out of an Arab building. Throughout the centuries, the palace was the residence of the kings and viceroys of Sicily.
The Norman-Arabic style palace is a truly massive structure. Its main attractions, which can be seen during the tour:
- Roger’s Hall — made during the reign of his son Roger II, is characterized by rich gold mosaics depicting hunting and beautiful imperial double-headed eagles.
- The Hall of Squires — discovered by accident in the twentieth century. Here 4 jugs are built into the floor, which presumably served as a depository of the monarchs' treasury.
- The main attraction of Normanni is the house chapel, the Palatine Chapel, with a rare Byzantine mosaic on the dome depicting Christ, angels and evangelists, and a wooden ceiling with intricate Islamic designs. The Chapel is considered the best example of the Arab-Norman Byzantine style.
- The Leaning Tower of Pisa is the only surviving medieval tower of the palace. Today it houses the university’s astronomical observatory.
Since 1947, the local Sicilian Parliament has met in the Norman Palace in the Hercules Hall.
- Hours of operation are Monday through Saturday 8:30 a.m. — 4:30 p.m., Sundays and state weekends 8:30 a.m. — 12:30 p.m.
- The price of a full admission ticket with a tour of the Chapel, all the halls, the tower and exhibitions is 19 €. More information on the palace’s website.
Park Villa Bonanno (Villa Bonanno)
Next to Palazzo Normanni, 30,000 square meters of parkland with palm trees and fountains was created in 1905. On its territory is a villa named after the then mayor of Palermo — Pietro Bonanno. In the shade of the sprawling palms you can see the monument to Philip IV, erected in 1856, a marble bust of Bonanno and even traces of Romanesque settlements of the first century.
Admission to the park is free and 24 hours a day.
Church of San Giovanni degli Eremiti (San Giovanni degli Eremiti)
The Church of St. John the Hermit is considered one of the most remarkable examples of Sicilian-Norman art and a symbolic monument of Palermo. The building is noticeable from afar thanks to its unusual red domes, the same as those of San Cataldo. Thanks to its proximity to the Palazzo Normanni, the church served for some time as a royal chapel.
The first Christian church here appeared as early as the VI century. Under Arab rule it was rebuilt into a mosque, and in the XII century Roger II returned it to the Benedictines. It was entrusted to Arab architects to rebuild the building back into a Christian temple, so the church has obvious Arab motifs — a peculiarity of the Arab-Normada style.
- Open from 9 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. weekdays, until 1 p.m. on Sundays.
- Admission is 6 €.
Orléans Park (Parco d’Orléans)
Orleans Park is not a must-see on a Palermo itinerary, but it’s a nice place to relax, especially if you’re traveling with kids. The park is technically outside the historical center, but I’m including it on the list because it adjoins right to the former city walls.
The 3.5 hectare park is all that remains of a huge 46 hectare park. The park is now part of Villa Orleans, the residence of the president of the Sicily region. The park was built in the mid-nineteenth century and was long used as a place for agricultural experiments, but now it is the only ornithological park in Italy.
- Working hours: Tuesday through Saturday from 10:00 to 13:00 and from 17:00 to 19:00. Sunday and holidays from 10:00 to 13:00. Monday off
- The park’s website
- Park layout
Church of Gesù (Chiesa del Gesù, Casa Professa)
If I were asked to pick one single church in Palermo that is a must-see inside, it would probably be the Church of the Gesu. If the main attractions in the Cathedral are the tombs of kings and art objects, the interior of the Jesuit church is a masterpiece in itself.
The Church of Gesù, or Casa Professa, is considered a masterpiece of Baroque architecture and interior decoration and is among the most beautiful churches in Sicily. The Jesuit order built the church over a period of 14 years (1564—1578). The structure was so majestic and impressive that it became the canon for the construction of Jesuit churches in Europe.
From the outside, Casa Professa does not attract attention — there are plenty of such modest facades at every turn in Palermo. But once inside, the interior fascinates from the first step: an endless canvas of carved marble, ornaments of flowers, animals and cherubs of different colors and shades, bas-reliefs and paintings, a contrasting combination of colored and white marble.
Underneath the church are early Christian catacombs. During World War II, the structure was severely damaged by bombing, but in the post-war period it was completely restored to its original appearance.
- Hours of operation are Monday-Saturday 7 a.m.-11:30 a.m. and 5 p.m.-6:30 p.m.; weekends 7 a.m.-12:30 p.m.
- Inside the temple there is a library and a museum (admission 5 €).
- More information on the Casa Profesa website.
Church of San Giuseppe dei Teatini (Chiesa di San Giuseppe dei Teatini)
Another important church of the neighborhood is San Giuseppe dei Teatini. This church, which is also considered one of the most striking examples of Sicilian Baroque, has a very different mood than Chiesa Gesù. It’s also right next to the Quattro Canti, so it’s easy to get to.
The church was built by the Catholic order of the Theatines in the 17th century. Its two facades face one corner of the Quattro Canti, marking the border of the Albergeria district.
The exterior and interior of the church looks sumptuous, but more somber than Gesu:
- Tall marble columns, twin columns in the vestibule.
- Huge murals throughout depicting saints.
- Gleaming marble floor with ornate ornamentation.
- Massive blue and yellow dome made of ceramic material — majolica.
- Parts of the ancient church in the crypt, where a spring with mineral water still flows.
- The altar has a bronze crucifix in an agate and ivory altar.
The temple doors are open from 7:30 am to 12:00 pm and from 5:00 pm to 8:00 pm. Entrance is free of charge.
What else to see in Albergeria
Here, at the church of San Giuseppe dei Tahitini, the Albergeria district ends. Further along Via Vittorio Emanuele, Kalsa begins. On the other side of the Quattro Canti are the neighborhoods of Loggia and Capo.
The big attractions are over, but the neighborhood can be walked around for a long time, wandering through back alleys and finding nooks and taverns hidden from tourists.
Ballaro Market (Mercato Ballaro')
Ballaro is one of the 4 historic markets and another atmospheric place in Palermo. It is often referred to as a must-visit, but…. in my opinion, it’s just a market. Here you can buy fresh fruits, vegetables, fish and spices, try national dishes — arancini (rice balls fried in mozzarella or tomato sauce) and Sicilian pizza.
Except on Sundays (if open, it’s only in the morning), Ballaro Market is open daily from 07:30 to 20:00. More information on the market page.
Porta Sant’Agata (Porta Sant’Agata)
St. Agatha’s Gate is small but interesting. Firstly, they are built into the ancient city wall, and this wall is clearly visible from the inside — modern residential buildings are attached to it.
Secondly, this gate was built in the XI century and has not been rebuilt — it is completely preserved in the same form. And thirdly, right behind the gate, 50 meters away, there is an old pastry shop Pasticceria Porta Sant’Agata, where they have been selling authentic Sicilian sweets for many years.
Where to stay in Albergeria
In brief, a tourist is better off choosing a hotel in a different neighborhood. Albergeria is the oldest and most disadvantaged area of the center. There are few hotels here, many apartments and B&Bs, but choose carefully: the rooms may be very nice and modern inside, but the building will turn out to be old and the neighborhood will be littered. Nowhere else than in Albergeria have I seen so much trash on the streets.
I’ll give you pointers on how to choose a hotel in the area.
- Avoid the train station. I myself usually skip this recommendation and do not squeamish to stop near the central stations — it is convenient to get to with luggage, and the center is always not far away. But in Palermo — no, no and no. To the right of the station is the Chinese neighborhood. To the left is the Arab neighborhood. Very dirty and noisy.
- Slightly better is the area from Orleans Park to Porta Nuova. The neighborhood is noisy, with active traffic, but slightly newer.
- The most decent options are the hotels along Via Vittorio Emanuele.
- Instead of B&B, I recommend choosing hotels and reading all reviews very carefully. Palermo is the kind of city where the photos on the bookings do not match the surroundings in the neighborhood.
