Peniche is located on a peninsula in the Atlantic Ocean, 90 km from Lisbon and 20 km from the main highway A8. The name of the city means «almost an island» in Latin. According to legends, the first inhabitants were an ancient people, theLusitanians, who found themselves on the peninsula and founded a town here, hiding from Julius Caesar.
There are not many historical and cultural attractions on the peninsula. People come here for the ocean, the walks and the scenery. Unlike the westernmost point of the continent, Cape Roca, there are plenty of places to stay and things to do.
Two days are enough to see the city. On the first day you should see the island of Berlenga Grande, and leave the second day for the interesting sites of the fishing port. If you plan to learn to surf, come for at least a week.
Fort Peniche (Fortaleza de Peniche)
In 1557, King João III built defensive walls and a fortress to protect the city from pirate attacks from Africa. The walls of the fortress are about 4 meters thick. During the First World War it served as a prison for prisoners, later it became a political prison and since 1984 it has housed the City Museum.
In addition to museum exhibits of prison furnishings, archaeology, and shipbuilding from those times, there is an incredible ocean panorama.
Not far from the fortress is the Avenida do Mar promenade with national cuisine restaurants and souvenir shops. I advise you to try seafood — in the restaurants you can choose fresh fish for dinner right from the window. I chose grilled octopus and local green wine.
Boats depart from the piers at the waterfront towards the protected islands of the Berlengas group. The archipelago consists of three groups of islands in the Atlantic Ocean: Berlenga Grande, Estelas and Farlichus. The largest island, Berlenga Grande, is a nature reserve with a lighthouse, an ancient fortress and a variety of unusual fauna.
The harbor is surrounded by unusually shaped breakwaters and picturesque cliffs. I recommend the cliffs for walks — each cliff is unique and looks different on a sunny day and in the fog. If you want to meet the sunset on the coast, in the company of birds and Portuguese wind, the best place is hard to think of.
Lace Museum (Museu da Renda de Bilros de Peniche)
The main occupation of women who stayed on the shore to wait for men who went to sea was needlework — bobbin lace. In the XIX century there were 1000 craftswomen, 8 workshops, and later an art school was established, where painting and lace weaving were taught.
The authorities strive to preserve the cultural heritage. Portuguese lace is exhibited at international exhibitions and tourists take it around the world as souvenirs.
- Museum hours are 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 2 p.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday.
- Admission is free.
- Museu-da-Renda-de-Bilros
Holy places
Portuguese fishermen looked to faith for hope for a better future, which explains the large number of churches in the district. The municipality’s website provides an itinerary of the county’s holy sites in Portuguese and English.
The most significant temples are considered to be the sanctuary of Our Lady of Healing and St. Peter’s Church.
Sanctuary of Our Lady of Healing (Santuário de Nossa Senhora dos Remédios)
The chapel in the rock is lined with unique tiles from the 18th century. It was built after a carved image of the Virgin Mary was found on the wall of one of the caves.
The temple complex has protective walls and a courtyard with pine trees. It is located near the Cape Cabo Carvoeiro.
St. Peter’s Church (Igrejas de São Pedro)
The town’s main church stands among the narrow streets. It was built in the 16th century and is considered the largest in the area. The building has a statue of St. Peter and paintings from his life. The main Baroque chapel is covered with gilded carvings.
Cape Cabo Carvoeiro (Cabo Carvoeiro)
The 30-meter-high Cape Carvoeiro offers panoramic views of the ocean and cliffs. In 1790, a lighthouse (Farol do Cabo Carvoeiro) 27 meters high was built here. It was automated in 1988 and now shines red for 28 kilometers.
Admission to the lighthouse is free, and can be visited on Wednesdays from 2:00 to 5:00 pm in summer and spring, and from 1:30 to 4:30 pm in fall and winter. Check the Autoridade Maritima Nacional website for opening hours.
Not far from the lighthouse there is a restaurant in the rock with an outdoor terrace, and many more descents to the lower tier of rocks. One of the surrounding rocks is particularly notable for its size. The Nau dos Corvos has been nicknamed the «Ship of Crows» (Nau dos Corvos) because of the birds constantly resting on it.
Trail and Papoa Island (Papoa)
To the north of Peniche in the ocean is a limestone peninsula of volcanic origin. It is a popular spot for fishing and hiking, and a great place for bird watching. The popular Baleal beach starts from this peninsula.
No one lives on the small peninsula, here you can be alone, listen to the silence and admire the endless ocean.
Beaches
Thanks to the terrain, thousands of wave-loving surfers come to the peninsula. Everyone, regardless of the level of riding, will find a great time and the best wave. The surfing here is year-round. Summer is a good time for beginners. In the fall and winter the wind increases, the waves become higher, so professionals come to the town. Peniche is considered the capital of European surfing. The sport has become a part of local life, and the town has surfboard manufacturing and repair, surf stores, surf schools, and a surf club.
Swimming on the city beaches is possible. There are no sharks in the coastal zone of the ocean, but the maximum water temperature is not more than 22 degrees, even in summer. The ocean is unpredictable — do not let children go swimming alone.
In the fall, only athletes in wetsuits swim in the ocean.
Praia dos Superutbos Beach (Praia dos Superutbos)
The beach is known for its high tuba-shaped waves and the right wind. The crests of the waves here are so long that a kind of corridor is formed between them and the bottom of the wave.
A place for those who dream of learning to surf. Surfing schools of different levels are located here. There is a parking lot, a bar, a restaurant and rental of awnings and umbrellas. The beach is marked with «Blue Flag» for cleanliness.
Baleal Beach (Praia Baleal)
The Baleal spot is a popular surfing spot. Nowadays it is white sand, crystal clear water and picturesque rocks, but in the past, whale bones were often found on the beach as whales were hunted around the area. Residents say that old whales used to come here to die, which is why the name «Baleia», meaning «whale» in Portuguese, has stuck to the place.
Hundreds of years ago, Baleal was an island. Only at low tide did a strip of land open up where the inhabitants crossed to the continent. Now there is a kilometer-long, one-lane-wide road that does not depend on the tides.
This is a modern surf village, where all conditions for tourists are created. There are bars, nightclubs, parties until the morning. The neighborhood is different from the quiet, calm city and reminds of California TV series. The staff works around the clock, and during breaks they dream of catching a cool ocean wave.
How much does it cost to surf in Peniche
- A week of surfing with accommodation in low season in Russian Surf Discovery school — 245 €. Individual lesson for an adult — 125 €.
- A package of five lessons in high season at the famous Baleal Surfcamp school Baleal Surfcamp is 150 €.
- A week in summer at Surf Break camp in a double room with breakfasts, training, excursions — 599 €.
When to go to Peniche?
Travelers come to the city all year round. In spring and summer, the city is filled with beach lovers and hikers. Surfer athletes choose the fall and winter time in the hope of huge waves and lucky winds.
The town authorities organize festivals to attract tourists. I will tell you about the most interesting events.
Festa de Nossa Senhora da Boa Viagem (Feast of Our Lady of Happy Trails)
Every year in August there is a pilgrimage dedicated to St. Mary. The main site of the event is the shrine of the Sanctuary of Our Lady. The event has two names: the Feast of Our Lady of Happy Trails, or the Festival of the Marian Catholic Church.
There are two festive processions: a sea procession and a street procession. The statue of the Virgin Mary is carried solemnly through the town among the locals in national costumes. Boats decorated with flowers, ribbons and lights sail along the sea near the harbor.
More information: Festa-de-Nossa.
Rip Curl Pro Portugal surfing competition.
The professional competitions, which are included in the ASP World Tour World Cup, take place on Supertubus beach in October. The world’s best athletes come to Peniche and the city turns into a universe of surf culture.
Competition Schedule: World Surf League.
Lace Weaving Day
In July, a lace weaving day is held. This is when the international bobbin lace exhibition takes place, and at the end of the festival there is a fashion show for the participants and a festive dinner for the artisans.
How to get to Peniche
The whole peninsula is only 6 square kilometers, so you can visit all the sights on foot. It is better to get to the town from Lisbon by bus or rental car.
From other major Portuguese cities, the drive to Peniche is long, sometimes with connections: from Porto — about 4.5 hours, from Coimbra — 2.5 hours.
Bus Lisbon — Peniche
Buses from Lisbon depart from the Sete Rios intercity bus station. It is located near the Jardim Zoologico metro station, on the blue line. The train station of the same name is nearby.
Lisbon bus station has cafes, stores, and a scoreboard with timetables. Toilet is paid — 0,5 €. The ticket office will print out the necessary schedule on request. The ticket office is open from 07:30 to 22:00.
The journey to Peniche takes 1.5 hours, the express buses are modern and comfortable. There is wi-fi.
A tip from personal experience: if you buy round-trip tickets at bus ticket offices or online, the price is lower. Bus drivers do not sell tickets.
- Fare: 8,6 €, children under 4 years old free of charge.
- There are 8—9 flights per day, the last one at 18:30 from Peniche to the capital and the last one back at 19:30. There are additional evening flights on Sundays and in summer.
- Schedule and online booking: Rede Expressos.
Peniche has a small bus station near the center, it is closed at night.
I missed the last bus to Lisbon and waited on the rocks while my friends picked me up. Peniche is a tourist town, there are hotels, hostels, apartments on Booking. If I had to stay overnight, I would easily our accommodation. However, I was traveling in October, and in high season it’s better to look for overnight options in advance.
By car
You can rent a car in Portugal at Rental Cars for 15 € per day. Take the A8 toll road to Peniche and the IP6 road to the turnoff to the peninsula. After the turnoff drive approximately 25 km.
If you go by car, be sure to visit other towns like Obidos, Nazare, Caldas da Rainha, check out Portuguese villages and take dozens of atmospheric photos.
