Burgos was founded in the 9th century to protect Castile and Leon from the Moors. From XI to XV centuries it was the capital of the Kingdom of Castile. Now it is a small northern city with a population of less than 200 thousand people and a small number of tourists. Burgos is a religious city, there are many monasteries and temples. And the most interesting part is the medieval center.
One day is enough to see Burgos, so it is logical to visit the city while traveling in Northern Spain, or get out of Madrid and the capital of the Basque Country, Bilbao.
The city is located on a hill and is divided by the Arlanzón River. All the most interesting sights are located on the northern bank. I will tell you what is worth seeing in the city in one day.
Tourist brochures can be found at the city’s tourist office. It is located near the main attraction, St. Mary’s Cathedral.
Cathedral (Catedral de Santa María)
The main architectural attraction of the city is the Gothic Cathedral. It was begun in 1221 on the site of a Romanesque temple, and 40 years later the main cathedral of Castile was consecrated. For several centuries it was rebuilt and reconstructed, architects from different countries contributed their own views, so here you can see fragments of German, French and Spanish Gothic.
The cathedral in Burgos is huge. Take a few hours to see it. There are 19 chapels and a collection of art: paintings, sculptures, tapestries, furniture and tombs.
In the center of the cathedral is the tomb of Spain’s national hero, El Cid Campeodor. He died at the end of the XI century, when the cathedral was not yet built, but at the beginning of the XXI century he was reburied within the walls of the temple.
The Cathedral of Burgos was recognized as a national monument in 1885 and in 1984 as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Cathedral is a must-visit for pilgrims going to Santiago de Compostela along the Way of St. James (Santiago).
There are two entrances to the temple: the free western entrance for believers and the southern entrance for tourists — here you have to pay to enter. You can buy tickets at the box office or buy them in advance on the website by selecting a certain time.
- Admission: adults — 8 €, in a group of 10 people — 7 €, children from 7 to 14 years old — 2 €.
- Mode of operation: weekdays from 10:00 to 14:00 and from 17:00 to 19:00, Saturday from 10:00 to 19:00, Sunday from 10:00 to 17:00.
Arch of St. Mary (Arco de Santa María)
The Arch of St. Mary is the most majestic gate that led to medieval Burgos and the Cathedral. Until the middle of the 16th century, it was just an ordinary arch, the entrance to the city. In honor of Emperor Charles V, the main gate was reconstructed and turned into a triumphal arch with an altar. At the top there is a sculpture of the Virgin Mary with a baby, under them the Guardian Angel of the city in the form of a knight and prominent personalities of Spain and Burgos.
Viewing St. Mary’s Arch is available 24 hours a day, 7 days a week and is free of charge.
Cartesian Monastery of Miraflores (Cartuja de Miraflores)
The monastery was built in the late 15th century in the Gothic style on the site of the hunting palace of King Henry III. The best sculptors, architects and artists of the time were involved in the project. The central altar image (retablo) is covered with gold brought from Columbus' second expedition to America. King Juan II and his wife Isabella of Portugal, the parents of Spain’s most famous queen, Isabella of Castile, are buried in the convent.
- The monastery is active, entrance is free of charge.
- Mode of operation: Monday — Saturday from 10:15 to 15:00 and from 16:00 to 18:00, Sunday from 11:00 to 15:00 and from 16:00 to 18:00.
- Website of the Cartesian monastery in Burgos.
Casa del Cordón.
The House of the Rope is the second name of Burgos' most famous palace: the ornamentation on the facade of the building resembles a rope. The house was built in the 15th century for the commander of the Castilian army, in neo-Gothic style.
The palace is famous for being the place where Queen Isabella received Columbus after his second voyage to America, and for housing the headquarters of General Franco during the Spanish Civil War. The building is now occupied by the central office of the Bank of Burgos.
- Admission is free.
- Mode of operation: Tuesday — Saturday from 12:00 to 14:00 and from 18:00 to 21:00, Sunday from 12:00 to 14:00.
Paseo del Espolón (Espolón Promenade)
The pedestrian street along the Arlanza River is more like a small park. It features neatly trimmed trees and shrubs, flowers, fountains and sculptures of Spanish kings. This favorite recreational spot for locals is open 24 hours a day and admission is free.
Castle of Burgos (Castillo de Burgos)
Burgos was founded in 884 as a castle on a hill, a guard post of Christian territory. During its thousand-year history, the fortress has been the residence of kings, a prison, a gunpowder factory and the site of Spain’s first artillery school.
In the early 19th century, Napoleon’s troops, leaving Burgos, blew up the castle. Since then it has not been restored. If you go up to the fortress, you will see the ruins, as well as an equipped observation deck, from which you can see all of Burgos from a height of 75 meters.
- Mode of operation: from 10:00 to 17:30 — 20:00 depending on the time of year and day of the week. Detailed schedule on the website.
- Admission is free.
Royal Monastery (Monasterio Santa María Real de las Huelgas)
King Alfonso VIII, at the end of the twelfth century, ordered the foundation of a convent with a royal Pantheon near Burgos. For almost seven centuries, this convent complex was the most influential and important convent in Castile and Leon.
The monastery resembles a fortress, with a church, chapels, outbuildings, a building with monastery rooms, and a covered gallery. Here you can see the tombs in the Royal Pantheon, the clothes of medieval kings and rich Spaniards in the Museo de Ricas Telas (Luxury Fabrics Museum).
For pilgrims following the Santiago Way, the monastery offers a shelter. In order to stay overnight it is enough to show the Pilgrim’s Passport. There is no fixed fee, everyone leaves as much money as they can.
The monastery can be visited independently or in groups. The guide gives the tour in Spanish or French.
- Working hours: Tuesday — Saturday from 10:00 to 14:00, additionally on Thursday and Saturday from 16:00 to 18:30, Sunday and holidays from 10:30 to 15:00, Monday — day off.
- Admission: adults 6 €, children under 5 years old — no charge. Free admission on Thursdays from 16:00 to 18:30.
- Royal Monastery website.
Burgos Museum (Museo de Burgos)
The museum, where you can get to know the city better, was opened back in 1835 and has changed its location several times. Since 1979, it has occupied two 16th century mansions.
The Casa de Miranda houses the archaeological part of the museum with historical artifacts of the formation of the city and its existence until the early medieval period.
The Casa de Íñigo Angulo (Casa de Íñigo Angulo) has four floors of artworks by local artists and Spanish painters and sculptors from the 19th and 20th centuries.
- Mode of operation: Tuesday — Saturday from 10:00 to 14:00 and from 17:00 to 20:00, Sunday and holidays from 10:00 to 14:00, Monday — day off.
- Admission: 1 € for both museums.
- Burgos City Museum website.
What you need to know about Burgos
- Spaniards consider Burgos one of the coldest cities in the country and claim that there are 10 months of winter and two months of summer. In fact, in the coldest month, January, the thermometer drops to just below zero. The most comfortable months to visit Burgos are July and August, with an average temperature of 26°C. It rains a lot in Burgos, especially in May.
- The peculiarities of the climate are reflected in the local cuisine. There are many hot pork and lamb dishes. I recommend trying roast leg of lamb (paletilla de cordero) or lamb stew (caldereta de cordero).
- The gastronomic symbol of Burgos is a special type of blood sausage called morcilla. It can be a souvenir brought back from the city. By law, only sausage made in Burgos can be called morcilla. It consists of onions, pig’s blood, lard and rice in a natural casing.
- More information about the city can be found on the Burgos travel website.
Where to stay in Burgos
- I recommend a good hotel Hotel Oca Burgos Centro — it is right on the Arlanson promenade, from some rooms you can see the cathedral and the sights of the historic center on the opposite bank. A double room costs 50—70 €.
- A little further from the center, a 20-minute walk from the cathedral, prices are lower: for example, rooms start at 40 € at the three-star Hotel Alda Cardeña.
- Want to stay in a historic building? NH Collection Palacio de Burgos 4* hotel is located in the building of a former monastery — the facade of the building and several interior rooms have been preserved. The rooms are absolutely modern, nothing reminds of the former cells, but you will have breakfast in the historical hall. A room for two people costs from 150 €.
