This place in the center of Europe, just 3 hours from Venice, is unfamiliar to the vast majority of tourists. Italians, Austrians and Slovenes seem to save it for themselves and for those travelers who love outdoor activities and share their values of respect for nature.
The Soča River (Isonzo in Italian) starts at the top of Slovenia’s Triglav Mountain in the Julian Alps and flows into the Gulf of Trieste in the Adriatic Sea. Of the 138 km total length of the river, 96 km passes through the territory of Slovenia, and at the towns of Nova Gorica and Gorizia the river enters the territory of Italy.
This place is not to be missed if you find yourself in Slovenia. Neither small coastal towns that resemble Italian ones to the extent of mixing, nor the lovely capital of the country — Ljubljana, nor even the alpine lakes Bled and Bohinj, where, it seems, all the gods of this world come on vacation — nothing in Slovenia compares to the Sochi Valley in terms of impressions. Here your eyes and brain can rest: the piercing turquoise water captures your thoughts and carries them through rocky gorges, past bright and alpine-like neat vegetation, authentic towns, under huge arched bridges. The mountain river rushes and sweeps you off your feet, then gently and sleepily spills over in the lowlands to crash down another rapids and rush back to the sea, to Trieste.
If you’ve ever wondered where people disappear from Italian cities on the hottest days, when the asphalt melts and only tourists walk around the red-hot Colosseum and Venice, here’s the answer. As much as I love the sea, in 30-degree heat there is nothing more pleasant than jumping off a steep cliff into icy water, which even in July-August does not get warmer than 10-14C.
The journey along the valley runs from Kranjska Gora to Nowa Gorica, although you can do it the other way around. It is possible to run through the main points of the route in one day — enough time for everything except Tolminski Gorge. However, I recommend splitting the route into two days and staying overnight in the towns of Kobarid (if you are coming from Kranjska Gora) or Most na Sochi (if you are coming from the south). There will be so many visual impressions in two days that you will relax like on a long vacation.
Triglav
Soča starts right at the top of Mount Triglav (pronounced with emphasis on the first syllable and translated as «Three Heads» or «Three Peaks»). This 2864-meter-high mountain is the highest point in the former Yugoslavia, and the surrounding area is Slovenia’s only national park, the pride of the country and the symbol depicted on the flag. According to local legend, Zlatorog, a mythical mountain goat with golden horns, lived here.
The Triglav National Park starts right by the village of Kranjska Hora, right after the lake Jasna. It is a shallow lake with very cold water — even in summer, you don’t swim here, but take a dip. In fact, Jasna consists of two connected artificial lakes. On the shore of the lake — two small cafes, a hotel and a parking lot. Many people leave their car here and go for a walk in Triglav Park — there are picturesque hiking trails around the lake. In winter, the lake almost never freezes — it is only covered with ice near the shores.
Kranjska Gora itself is a classic alpine resort and a cute, cozy town. In winter, the ski slopes are open, while in the warm season people come here for hiking and cycling through the picturesque alpine scenery.
I recommend Kranjska Gora as the start or end point of the Sochi Valley itinerary. Stay at La Terrazza apartments: very clean, comfortable and inexpensive by local standards, suitable for 2—5 people. Dinner at Kotnik pizzeria: I recommend pizza with truffle or local venison.
Russian Chapel (Ruska kapela)
The road from Kranjska Gora to Soča in the Triglav Park passes by theVršič Pass. This road was built by Russian prisoners of war during the First World War. During the construction of the pass, many of them were killed in an avalanche, and in 1917 the surviving comrades built a wooden Orthodox chapel named after St. Vladimir in their honor.
The chapel is unusual: its wooden facade seems to mimic the feathers of a bird. It belongs to the Russian Orthodox parish in Belgrade and, at the time of its construction, was probably the most Western Orthodox Church in the world. It is almost impossible to get inside, the chapel is permanently closed. According to the description, the interior is modest but interesting, in the Russian style: altar with iconostasis, wrought iron chandeliers and candlesticks.
Vrsic Pass
The road through Triglav is a serious challenge if you are afraid of heights and have weak vestibular apparatus. The Vršić mountain pass at 1611 m is the highest in the eastern Julian Alps. There are 50 serpentines on the road from Kranjska Gora through Vrsic. Even those who usually tolerate passes and serpentines easily get carsick here.
At the top, you can relax and eat or drink in mountain huts — called «kocha» in Slovenian. In the kochas, Slovenian national food is usually prepared. If you don’t know what to order, start with the traditional Slovenian sausage, kranjska klobasa. Most often it is served with stewed cabbage and mustard. To drink it, of course, you should drink Slovenian beer: Union or Laško (pronounced «Union» and «Laško»).
Sochi Gorges: Small and Big Troughs
A «trough» (korito in Slovenian) is just a mountain gorge. But when you see the Big and Small Troughs on the Sochi, you understand the meaning of the word intuitively: they look like very deep tanks with very steep banks. It is not allowed to swim in the Small Trough, and in the Big Trough too, but it is in the Big Trough that locals jump from the rocky cliff without fear.
It’s delightful: the water is icy cold, and the rocks on the banks are red-hot in summer. Right under the rock is a fairly deep hole where you can’t reach the bottom with your feet, so it’s relatively safe to jump in. But be careful: the current is very strong and takes you off your feet, and in the cold water your feet go numb in a couple of minutes. That’s just enough time to swim to the shallows and get ashore immediately. But Slovenian teenagers put on wetsuits and splash around in the water without restrictions.
Koziak Falls
The Kozjak Stream flows through several pools and 6 waterfalls, but only two are accessible to visitors: the 15-meter-high Great Kozjak (called the Kozjak Waterfall) and the 8-meter-high Mali Kozjak below.
Veliki Kozjak is considered one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Slovenia. It is forbidden to swim in it.
In the summer season, admission is charged: 4 € per adult ticket. Prices here.
Two Napoleon bridges
There are two Napoleon bridges in the vicinity of the town of Cobarid. They are located far apart and look quite different from each other.
The small stone bridge spans the Nadija Gorge and was created around 1812 — it was built on a route known since ancient Roman times. Only time links this bridge to Napoleon: it was built by a local builder when the French emperor was conquering the surrounding lands. The design of the bridge is said to be unique: it is studied by architecture students in all the world’s universities.
Another Napoleon Bridge is located near the town of Kobarid and crosses the Soča River. It is called Napoleon’s Bridge because French waxes passed over it.
Kobarid.
The small tourist town of Kobarid is a central point for those tourists who come to the Sochi Valley for a few days. There are hiking trails all around, and in the town itself there are about ten companies organizing extreme entertainment on the river: rafting, kayaking, etc.
The novel «Farewell to Arms!» took place in these places Kobarid was then the Italian town of Caporetto, and one of the biggest battles of the First World War took place in its vicinity. The history of the war is shown in the local World War I Museum, which won a Council of Europe award in 1993. To commemorate those who died in 1938, an ossuary was built on the hill above the town, a communal burial of the remains of 7,014 Italian soldiers at the foot of the 17th century church of St. Anton of Padua. The path to the church is reminiscent of Christ’s ascent to Calvary: sculptures along the ascent recount important moments.
From the top of the church, you have an incredible view of the valley. You can see the houses in Kobarid, the neighboring settlements and the bends of the river.
In Kobarid, you can stay in apartments or gesthouses. There is only one hotel in the town.
- Hlapi and Masera are good 3—4* apartments in the center of Kobarid with rooms from 60 € for two people.
- Hotel Hvala Superior — Topli Val is the only hotel in Kobarid, located right on the central square. It is a 3* hotel with its own good restaurant. Room for two persons with breakfast costs from 116 €.
Another reason to come to Kobarid is the most famous Slovenian restaurant Hiša Franko and the only two Michelin-starred restaurant in the country, located in the village of Staro Selo near Kobarid. Its owner and chef Ana Roš is the most titled female chef in the world. Dinner for two costs from 500 € and you have to sign up months in advance.
For a casual lunch in Kobarid itself, I recommend Hiša Polonka. Here they prepare national dishes simply, deliciously and at the price of 10—15 € for a hot dish.
Tolminska Gorge (Tolminska korita)
Tolmin Gorges is the southernmost point of the Triglav Park. Tolmin is the common name of two of the most beautiful gorges in the area: Tolminka and Zadlaszczyca. The confluence of these streams is the lowest point of Triglav Park. The walk through the gorge takes about two hours, and along the way you will come across Dante’s Cave, the Devil’s Bridge, which makes your legs wobble, and the Bear’s Head stone stuck between the rocks.
Most na Soči (Most na Soči)
Bridge-on-Sochi is the name of the town that has a huge artificial lake. This spill has the same fantastic water color as the Socha River. Here you catch trout, travel by rook on the lake and Socha, go sapa and kayaking, and fly paragliders.
People lived in the vicinity of the lake and the city several millennia ago: as archaeologists have found out, there was an important ancient city here. Now there are places of power scattered around the lake. They are not difficult to find, there are signs along the route.
Most-na-Sochi is also chosen as a base for rest and exploring the surroundings, but here the entertainment is quieter than in Kobarid. Booking should be taken care of in advance: there are few places of accommodation in the town, and in high season prices are high. Apartments prevail around the lake. A 3* room with breakfast costs from 70 € in a guesthouse and from 80 € in a city hotel.
Kanal ob Soči (Kanal ob Soči)
The first mention of this city dates back to the 12th century. The town has been Italian for a long time — you can still feel it now, especially when you relax on a hot afternoon in a café in the main square by the Neptune Fountain. In Canal has preserved the church, built in the XV century in the Gothic style and rebuilt in the XVIII century in the classical style. What remains from the Gothic period is the altar.
However, the town is not known for its architecture, but for this view.
The first bridge over the Soča River was built in the late Roman Empire, and the current one was built after the First World War. In the center of the bridge there is a platform for cliff diving, where competitions are held every year in August.
It is possible to linger in Canal for a few days. There’s a small beach overlooking the bridge where you can even swim in the hot months, and there are plenty of hiking trails and natural attractions in the surrounding area. If you like to roam the mountains, you can spend a week or more here.
Solkanski bridge (Solkanski most)
It is Slovenia’s most famous bridge. It sprawls across the Soča River just outside the town of Nova Gorica. Built in 1905 by the Austro-Hungarian Empire, the bridge was destroyed by it during World War I and then rebuilt by the Italians to the same blueprints.
The bridge is famous for what it is:
- The largest arch span among all railroad bridges in the world — the span length is 85 m;
- The longest stone arch bridge — total length 220 m.
It is an active railroad bridge, you can drive over it on the route Yesenitsy — Nova Goritsa, but the beauty and scale cannot be appreciated from the train car. The observation deck with the best view of the bridge is located near the coast of Sochi. It can be reached by car or on foot from Nova Gorica: drive to the parking lot at the restaurant Ošteria Žogica and walk through the restaurant.
In the area of Solkan settlement, i.e. right at the bridge, the Soča River leaves the Alps and Slovenia. Downstream of Socha, Italy already begins. On its territory, the river takes the Italian name Isonzo, calms down and near Monfalcone it flows into the Adriatic Sea.
Solkan is the oldest settlement in Posocye: people have lived here since the Stone Age. During the First World War, the Soča front passed through here, and there are many war monuments in the vicinity of the settlement. Now Solkan is the outskirts of the town of Nova Gorica.
Nova Gorica (Nova Gorica)
In Nowa Gorica the Soča route ends or begins — depends on which side you drive from. It is a young and small town. It came into being in the 50s of the twentieth century after the town of Gorica passed to Italy after World War II and became Gorizia. Nova Gorica was built right at the border with Italy, and after Slovenia joined the European Union, a monument in the form of a circle appeared on the site of the former border fortifications.
There are few places of interest in Nova Gorica itself — the town is too young. But it is convenient to finish the Sochi Valley route here, spend the night, and leave for the Slovenian coast or Ljubljana the next day.
Since the city is right by the border, there are casinos and good 4* hotels, which are not very many in the whole of Slovenia.
Where to stay in Nova Gorica:
- Sabotin is a 3* hotel with a restaurant, located in Solkan. Room for two persons with breakfast costs 90 €.
- Park — casino-hotel 4*, in the very center of Nova Gorica, with good rooms and breakfasts — from 90 € per night.
- Perla is not just a big spa hotel, but also the largest casino in Europe. The hotel is already «old», but it is located in the city center and a room for two people costs from 120 €.
- DAM is the most expensive hotel in Nova Gorica. It is a stylish, new 4* boutique hotel with rooms from 150 € for two people with breakfast. The DAM restaurant has a Michelin star.
What you need to know before traveling through the Sochi Valley
The best time to visit the Sochi Valley is from April to October or November, before the leaves fall. In summer Socha is stunning with the famous turquoise color of the water, and in autumn with the bright colors of the surrounding trees. The mountain pass and gorges are especially beautiful in the fall.
If you want to fish in the Socha, take care of the permit. This river is home to the largest freshwater trout in the world — the largest specimen was 1.2 meters long. Fishing in Slovenia is a licensed activity, and you can buy a tourist license in the tourist towns. You can fish only by fly fishing. All details here: fishing in the Soča River Valley.
Which city to choose for an overnight stay?
- For extreme sports and rafting on the Soča — Kobarid.
- For a quiet evening stroll along the shore of the reservoir — Bridge-on-Sochi.
- For beach vacation — Canal-ob-Sochi. Beach vacation will be conditional: water temperature in the river even in summer is about 10C.
- For hiking — Cobarid, Bridge or Canal.
- Drive through the valley in one day and return to civilization — Nova Gorica.
Useful links:
- Schedule of events and festivities in the Sochi Valley.
- All about rafting, kayaking and active water sports.
- Tourism site of the Socha River Valley
