Iceland on your own: sights, volcanoes, geysers and waterfalls

Iceland is the part of Europe that is called the «ice country»: 11% of its territory is covered by glaciers (jökull) with a total area of 11,400 km². Nature has created on the island a unique fusion of fire and ice, where fire-breathing volcanoes are covered with huge cold blocks. The world cinema has long loved the Icelandic beauty. Here they filmed «A View to a Kill» and «Die But Not Now» from Bond, «Batman: The Beginning», «Lara Croft» and not only.

In this country, the results of global warming are particularly tangible: huge glaciers are melting before our eyes. In 2019, a farewell ceremony was held for the melted Okyekudl glacier as a reminder of the possible fate of the others and the coming catastrophe.

In this article I have collected the most striking and famous places of the country, its calling cards. If you come to Iceland for the first time, start your acquaintance with this itinerary.

Prepare for the «ice island» the right way.

• Iceland doesn’t have bad weather, but ill-fitting clothes can be a disaster for your trip. At any time of the year be prepared for strong gusts of wind, rain, snow, hail. Non-blowing and waterproof clothing is a must, you can’t do without a polyethylene raincoat.
• Trips in the country are mostly trekking and hiking through an amazing landscape with slippery cliffs and ice caves. Comfortable and reliable footwear is a must-have.
• Depending on solar activity and weather conditions, the northern lights can be seen in Iceland from the beginning of September until the end of April.
  
• The best time to travel is during the warmest period: in July and August. However, even in these months, daytime temperatures may not rise above 16C.

How to plan a tour in Iceland

• For a budget tour for 2—3 days, I recommend starting with a tour of Reykjavik and then touring the south of Iceland, including a trip around the Golden Ring. Overnight stays can be arranged in camping — it will be the cheapest option with minimal accommodation costs.
• If you only have 1 full day in Iceland with an overnight stay, it is better to book a ready-made tour including the Golden Ring itinerary and a visit to the Blue Lagoon (180 € per person).
• A ready-made tour from 2 to 10 days usually includes travel, accommodation and partial meals. For example, the price for a 2-day tour with 1 overnight stay will cost from 130 € per person (Auto Tour for 3 days«Hot Springs and Golden Ring»).
• A trip by rented car will be more expensive, but you can not only drive along the Icelandic ring road, but also look at the main attractions — waterfalls, parks, lagoons, springs, geysers. This is a great opportunity to see the maximum number of memorable places without rushing and without depending on a tour group.

Iceland’s ring road Hringvegur (Þjóðvegur 1)

The 1,322 km Icelandic Ring Road (also called Road 1) is one of the longest ring roads in the world, and along it you can see the main attractions of the island. Theoretically, the road can be traveled in 16—17 hours, unless weather conditions or force majeure interfere. By driving along the ring road and turning off onto various highways, you can see popular destinations:

• The village of Hveragerði, where people like to bathe in the hot river water.
• Seljavallalaug, where people also come to bathe in the warm natural spring.
• The crash site of an American Douglas DC 3 military airplane.
  
• Cape Dyrhólaey, home to large colonies of Icelandic birds.
• The cute village of Vík, with a population of 300, is a favorite place for tourists to stay.
• Hofskirkja Church is the last structure in Iceland covered with a grass roof (1884).
• The fishing village of Höfn is a fishing village where you can taste Icelandic lobsters.
• The Hengifoss waterfall is one of the highest in the country, notable for its red streaks of clay.
  
• The village of Seyðisfjörður is located on a beautiful fjord and has a ferry stop for crossing to the Faroe Islands.
  
• Lake Mývatn is a stunning place with caves, natural baths and lots of birds.

What you need to know about the ring road:

1. As of 2019, it is fully paved.
2. The speed limit is 90 kilometers per hour.
3. The road is open year-round, but the weather is changeable, so sections are sometimes closed due to weather conditions.
4. It is better to tour in a four-wheel drive vehicle.
5. For the most comfortable, unhurried tour of all the sights along the ring road, you’ll need a week in summer and at least two in winter.
6. Loop tours.

Golden Circle Tourist Route in Southern Iceland

A short route that can be traveled in a day is the most popular sightseeing tour in the southern part of the country — the Golden Ring. It allows you to see the main beauties of the «ice island» in the shortest possible time. Its length is 300 km.

The Golden Ring tour includes 3 main points: Tingvellir National Park, Geysir geothermal area and Gullfoss waterfall.

A one-day minibus tour takes 7—8 hours with departure and return to Reykjavik. The cost for such an adventure starts from 50 € per person.

Thingvellir National Park (Þingvellir)

The park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is located in the southwestern part of the country, just 50 kilometers from Reykjavik. Icelanders are proud of it, as it was on its territory that the first democratic parliament, the Alfingi, was formed in 930.

Thingvellir is a picturesque park with a diverse landscape of lakes, waterfalls, gorges and lava fields. It is also a place where people come to visit two continents at the same time and see the lithospheric plate rift with their own eyes.

The main attraction of the park is the «golden waterfall» — Güdlfoss. A powerful stream of water falls from two heights (11 m and 21 m) at right angles into a gorge. Also here is the largest lake of the island — Thingvadlavatn. And diving enthusiasts can also see the plate faults underwater at depths of up to 40 meters in the Silfra Gorge.

• Walking paths run from one landmark to the next through the park.
• You can reach the park by tour or by car, as there is no direct bus from the cities.
• One of the canyons at the junction of tectonic plates is where some scenes from «Game of Thrones» were filmed.
• For a sightseeing walking tour, 2—3 hours is enough.

• Admission is free, fees may be charged only for camping space, sightseeing or parking.

Big Geyser (Geysir)

The Big Geyser is the main point on the Golden Ring route. More often than not, there is no free corner here to take pictures without tourists. It is necessary to come only in waterproof clothes and shoes.

The height of the water column can reach 60 meters. Not everyone is lucky enough to see this power, as it can sleep for years. During the so-called sleep is a green lake with a diameter of only 18 m and a depth of 120 cm.

Gullfoss Waterfall (Gullfoss)

This waterfall is famous for its cloud of spray, from which it is difficult to get dry. The turbulent flow of the Hvita River falls from two heights — 5 and 20 meters. If you’re lucky enough to have sunny weather, you’ll understand why Güdlfoss is called the «Golden Waterfall». The beautiful ring of rainbows in the sunshine is mesmerizing.

• Gudlfoss waterfall is 130 km from the capital. Take Ring Road 1, turn off onto highway 35, at the end of which it is located.
• Nearby there are 2 free parking lots on 2 levels of the waterfall, which are connected by a pedestrian staircase. At the top you can have a snack in the cafe and buy a souvenir.
• The waterfall can be reached by car or with a Golden Ring tour, and there is a shuttle bus from Reykjavík bus station in the mornings during the summer. You can see the itinerary and prices here.

A bridge between Europe and America

It is the only bridge on the planet where you can cross from Europe to America and virtually visit two continents at the same time. The footbridge symbolically connects the split between the North American and Eurasian lithospheric plates, but is rather symbolic.

• The Intercontinental Bridge is located at the very end of the Reykjanes Peninsula.
• It can be reached by traveling from the capital city on Route 40 and turning onto Route 425.
• It is convenient to combine a visit to the bridge with a trip to the Blue Lagoon.
• More information here.

Skaftafell Park (Skaftafell)

The island’s pristine topography is due to the constant eruptions of underground volcanoes, which are covered by glaciers. Skaftafedl Park is one of the most beautiful places in the south of the island, locals call it a «hiker’s paradise». The park has the most diverse flora among sand and ice, cascading waterfalls, glacial lagoons, black desert and the highest point on the island, Mount Hvannadalshnúkur.

There is an info center open in Skaftafedl where you can book tours, excursions, camping, hiking and other activities. I recommend just walking the hiking trails. They are all clearly marked.

• The park is open from 8:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. in the summer and from 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. in the winter.
• The cost of a tent space for overnight camping is from 2 €. The conditions are described on the official website and here. It is not possible to reserve a place in advance, but there is always a place to put your tent. Book a parking space here.
• The park can be reached by public bus, which runs on the Reykjavík-Höbn route with a stop in Skaftafedlje.
• The entrance to the park can be reached by taking County Road 1 and turning onto Road 998. Not far from the turnoff are the ruins of a ruined metal bridge, which now serve as a viewing platform with a spectacular view of the Vatnajokull glacier.
  
• In winter, from November to March, it’s worth coming for caving — a walk through the park’s ice caves. Thanks to the outside light, the ice inside turns bright blue, creating an inexpressible spectacle.
  
• Detailed information about park operations and all-weather warnings can be found on the website.

Svartifoss Waterfall (Svartifoss)

Skaftafedl Park has one of the most beautiful waterfalls in the country, the 20-meter high Svartifoss. It got the name «Black Fall» because of the powerful black basalt columns that surround the cliff. They resemble a huge organ. This beautiful natural spectacle inspired the author of the Hallgrimskirkja church in Reykjavik.

• From the info center in Skaftafedl Park to the waterfall is a 1.5 km drive (30—40 min).
• The hike is not difficult, a little uphill.
• To get closer to the waterfall, cross a small bridge.

Vatnajökulsþjóðgarður National Park (Vatnajökulsþjóðgarður)

It is Iceland’s largest national park and is home to the country’s and Europe’s largest glacier by volume, Vatnajökull. With an area of 8133 km², it covers 8% of the entire country. The park itself was formed in 2008 by combining two then existing parks: Jökulsaurgljuvur (created in 1973) and Skaftafedl (1967).

Among the vast volcanic landscapes and ice caves, you can walk and ride jeeps. There are several campsites in the park: the large and developed Ausbirgi Valley (you can book online) and the modest Vesturdalur on the way to the Dettifoss waterfall.

• Although the center in Ausbirgi is open at any time of the year, however, services may be limited in winter due to weather conditions.
• Dettifoss and Vesturdalur can be impossible to access in winter because they are high up in the mountains and buried in snow.
• Detailed information about the park on the website.

Jökulsárlón Lagoon (Jökulsárlón)

It is the largest glacial valley in the country, formed by the melting of a glacier. It is located between Chebn and Skaftafedl and can be seen from the ring road. It is an offshoot of the Vatnajöküdl glacier. You can explore the lagoon on your own, on a hike, on a guided tour or on an organized jeep or snowmobile tour. Jökulsárlón has been the site of many world-famous films and advertisements.

In summer, sea tides add salt water to the lagoon, which makes its fauna more diverse. Herring and salmon are brought in with the water, followed by seals that come and roost here. From May to September, you can get an up-close look at the glacial figures by booking a boat or amphibious trip between the icebergs of Jokulsarlon.

• The best time to walk around the lagoon is July-August.
• In the winter, the lagoon freezes over.
• More details about the lagoon on the website.

Seljalandsfoss Waterfall (Seljalandsfoss)

This impressive 60-meter waterfall is one of the most famous and popular attractions and a favorite spot for professional photographers. It is the only one on the island that you can walk around, as there is a large cave right behind it. It takes 2 hours by car from Reykjavík to the waterfall, non-stop and only 100 meters from the ring road.

Another of Iceland’s many waterfalls, Gljúfrabúi, can be seen within a 10-minute walk from Seljalandsfoss. The way to it is through a shallow river along a canyon, the bottom of which you can walk along.

Skógafoss Waterfall (Skógafoss)

This is one of the most popular waterfalls, which is depicted in more than one popular movie: «Thor 2: Kingdom of Darkness», «The Secret Life of Walter Mitty» and the TV series «Vikings».

The trail to Skougafoss waterfall (60 m high) is the most popular trail, which is regularly trekked. It is a waterfall with a ledge behind the water flow, where you can go in and see it from the inside, but you cannot go around it like Seljalandsfoss.

In sunny weather you can see rainbows, and even more than one. Of course, the locals have their own legend about this beautiful phenomenon. It is believed that a Viking, who lived near the waterfall, hid his treasures in a cave behind the water flow, which shine in the sun in all colors of the rainbow.

Almost all sightseeing tours in South Iceland include a visit to this waterfall.

Reynisfjara Black Beach (Reynisfjara)

This amazing place appears in the episode «Eastern Watch» of the TV series «Game of Thrones». The unique black sand and surrounding rocks are the result of a volcano. Lava erupted and fell into the ocean, where it solidified and sharpened under the action, and was brought to the shore by the waves already in the form of sand.

On the eastern side of Reynisfjall, there is Reynisfjall Mountain with arched caves, basalt columns and crevices that are home to flocks of birds.

• Not far from the beach is the township of Vik (Vik), where there is a bank, stores, hotels, cafes.
• The beach is 180 km from the capital city and 11 km from Vic.
  

Dettifoss Waterfall (Dettifoss)

This is the most powerful waterfall in Europe, the flows of which produce an incredible roar. It is located in the north-east of Iceland in Vatnajökull Park. It is 100 meters wide and 44 meters high, which is only 9 meters less than the Niagara Falls. The waterfall shows its greatest power in late spring and early summer, and the best and most beautiful time to visit it is July-August.

According to the author of the sci-fi movie Prometheus, Ridley Scott, the mystery of the Earth’s birth took place near the Dettifoss. Another waterfall, Selfoss, can be seen 1 km away, and Hafragilsfoss, 2 km away.

Where is the best place to stay when traveling

If you are exploring Iceland on your own without a guided tour, you can stay overnight not only in a tent in organized camping and glamping, but also in guesthouses and hotels. Of course, the cheapest option is a place for your tent in a camping site (from 2 €).

1. Glamping is popular on the island, with unconventional overnight stays in a tent or wooden pod from 40 € per night(Fossatun Pods in Fossatun).
2. Recently it is becoming fashionable to spend the night on an authentic Icelandic farm, which will also cost from 40—50 € per night, but there may also be additional costs for taxes and fees(Thorbrandsstadir Farm Holidays in the village ofThorbrandsstadir).
3. At The Barn hostel in Vic you can rent a bed from 50 €.
4. A standard room for two people at Fosshotel Husavik 3* will cost from 70 €.
5. A double room in a 4* hotel will cost at least 120 € per night, but you can find such a room only in a big city(Icelandair Hotel Herad).

In Iceland, glaciers exist alongside fiery volcanoes. The rugged and beautiful country delights with contrasts, fully displaying its Scandinavian flair. Filmmakers and photographers are looking for juicy shots here, and tourists come for new vivid impressions of natural beauties. To go or not to go to Iceland is not a question. You just need to decide for how many days.