The spring crocus (Crocus vernus) is like saffron, but not the one from which the expensive spice is extracted — it blooms in the fall. The value of Slovenian crocuses is different: in spring, they cover the hills with carpets of delicate purple or white flowers. The spring crocus (which is purple) blooms en masse in March and April, and the white saffron, or nunca, blooms a little later until the end of May. In spring, the main question on Slovenian social networks is «where are the crocuses already blooming», and the entertainment is a relay race «who can post a photo of purple hills faster». Because crocuses bloom for only one or two weeks, the weather is unpredictable, and to be able to see crocuses blooming on a sunny day is a kind of luck.
The most famous destination for crocus lovers is the Velika Planina plateau. In winter, the plateau is completely covered with snow, and the first crocuses break through the melted snowdrifts at the end of March, as if purple paint had been splashed on white. The main peak of flowering is in April, and the dates vary depending on the weather: sometimes in early April, sometimes in the second half.
In March, crocuses are sought elsewhere. The most famous is Mrzli Vrh, which translates as Frost Peak, near the village of Žiri near Idrija. There may be fewer crocuses here and the hills may not look as spectacular as on the Great Planina, but they appear a month earlier and are much easier to reach.
I will tell you about three routes to Frost Peak: 1) the easiest — with a car ride directly to the top and a walk along the plateau; 2) a small hike lasting about a couple hours; 3) a half-day route.
Route 1: the easiest
This is such an easy hike that it is suitable for even the youngest hikers. It doesn’t require climbing a slope, because you’ll cover the entire height by car. You won’t need any special outfit either: you can walk along the beaten path in any shoes. I recommend you to take a hooded jacket, because there may be cold winds on the Frost Peak in March.
The end point of the route is the mountain hut (called koča in Slovenia) Mrzl’k. On weekends and public holidays, the hut is open for lunch and warmth. You can drive up to the parking lot at the hut itself. If there are not enough parking spaces, you can go back a bit and park behind the kapelica, which is Slovenia’s name for small roadside chapels.
The hut has a page where you can check the mode of operation (it varies seasonally) and see the current weather via webcam.
Several hills around the hut are covered with crocuses to a greater or lesser extent, but take the time to look behind the next neighboring hill — it may be even more beautiful there. In the forest, snowdrops are blooming at the same time as the crocuses.
- Time: from 15 minutes.
- Height difference: 50 m.
- Equipment: not required.
Route 2: slight rise
A walk with even a little physical exertion is always rewarded with more beautiful views. The ascent to Mrzlom Vrch from the village of Ledine takes about an hour one way.
The starting point of the route is at the Pr' Jureč tourist farm, near which you can park your car. You can request an excursion or lunch with local specialties at the farm.
From the farm, follow the signs to Sivka / Mrzli vrh. The path goes almost entirely along a country road. Due to the steep serpentine road, the speed of the cars is low, but do not let your guard down — bikers like to race on such empty and winding roads.
Mount Sivka itself is not very interesting — it is completely covered with forest and there is no view from it. The highest point is marked only by a modest plaque.
- Round trip travel time: 1.5 — 2 hours
- Altitude difference: 218 m.
- Equipment: sneakers, trekking poles on request.
Route 3: maximum
The longest and most scenic route to Mrzlý Vrch starts in the village of Žiri and takes almost half a day, with an altitude difference of over 500 meters. It still does not necessarily require special trekking shoes and hiking poles, but both will make the hike easier and more enjoyable.
Leave the car in the parking lot at St. Martin’s Church and follow the arrow signs to Mrzli vrh / Brezovica. The path will take you along gravel roads, forest paths and meadows.
- Round trip travel time: 3—4 hours.
- Altitude difference: 509—540 m.
- Equipment: trekking shoes, poles on request. Tick spray.
How to prepare for trekking in Slovenia
The walk to Mrzli vrh is considered easy, even on the longest route. There is only one reason to skip it on your way around Slovenia in March: if the crocuses have already bloomed.
The ascent is gradual, with short steep sections, and does not require special equipment. Even the longest route can be done in normal sneakers, but they may be uncomfortable on the way back because of the long descent. If you have trekking sneakers, great. If you don’t, you can go in regular sporty ones and still have fun.
Trekking poles are also only useful for those who don’t walk without them and who take care of their knees. If you don’t usually use trekking poles, you don’t need them on this route either.
On weekends, there is a hut on Mrzlom vrhu where you can eat, warm up and use the toilet. You will only need a bottle of water with you on the way, and that’s only if you’re on a long route. On weekdays, however, bring water and a snack.
Clothing: A windproof jacket and fleece is recommended. During crocus blooming the temperature stays at 8—14C and it can be windy at its peak.
A mandatory precautionary measure is tick spray: Slovenia has a lot of ticks. Treat your clothes before you go for a walk.
Choose the sunniest day possible for your trip — that’s when the crocuses open up and look more impressive.
How to get to Mrzloj Vrch
It is more convenient to use a car to travel through the Slovenian mountains, but Frost Peak can even be reached by public transportation. This is another reason to include it in your March Slovenia itinerary.
- There is a bus from Škofja Loka to Žiri, and you can get there by bus or train from Ljubljana and Kranj. The carrier between Škofja Loka and Giri is Arriva. The fare is about 4 € and the journey time is 40—50 minutes. Even on weekends and in low season there are several flights.
- There is a bus to Ledine from Idrija, which is a large town that can be reached from Ljubljana, Nova Gorica or the Slovenian coast by bus and train. The carrier between Idrija and Ledine is Nomago. Flights are few and don’t come every day, be sure to check the schedule in advance. The ticket is about 2 €.
- Buses between major cities can be checked here. There is a separate article about rail connections in Slovenia.
