The city was very fortunate to be located at the point where the River Trave flows into the Baltic Sea. This made Lübeck a convenient transportation hub for medieval Europe — and even now that its former glory has faded, it remains Germany’s second largest Baltic port. Around 1200 in Lübeck, merchants from the Baltic regions formed a trade and defense association, the Hanseatic League. Its tacit capital was Lübeck, as a city with a very favorable geographical location. It is sometimes called the «Mother of the Hanseatic League». Remaining the main Hanseatic city until the end of the 15th century, Lübeck prospered and was very wealthy. There was a peace agreement and free trade between the members of the alliance, which was originally formed to protect them from pirates. Lübeck was a huge transshipment base between the Baltic Sea and the North Sea, and money flowed through it in rivers and settled into its life, culture and architecture. For example, in these times and with this money the tallest church on the Baltic was built — it was surpassed only by the Cologne Cathedral in 1880. And the entire historical center of Lübeck is the most extensive among the German sites of the UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Lübeck is increasingly on the tourist’s radar — people come here to see the medieval city, where Renaissance, Gothic and Classicist architecture has been preserved. It is often called «The City of Seven Towers» («Die Stadt der 7 Türme»), which form its recognizable profile. It is also the birthplace of marzipan, and every December it hosts a cozy and quaint Christmas fair.
Let me tell you what to see in Lübeck if you are here for 1—2 days.
Old Town (Lübecker Altstadt)
The main attractions of Lübeck are concentrated in its historical part with the name Altstadt — Old Town. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987.
The historic city center is called an island because it is surrounded on all sides by water — the Trave and the Elbe-Lübeck-Kanal. In 1942, Lübeck was the first German city to be hit by Allied bombs, at which time 1,044 buildings were destroyed — about 20% of the city. About 1000 buildings were not damaged or partially damaged. It is these that are now under UNESCO protection.
In the old town are the famous majestic towers of the churches of St. Jakobi (St. Jakobi Kirche, 112 m), St. Mary (Marienkirche,125 m), St. Peter (St. Petri Kirche, 108 m), St. Aedigien (St. Aedigien, 86 m) and Lübeck Cathedral (Dom zu Lübeck, 115 m) — for them Lübeck is called the City of Seven Towers. All these churches were built on hills, at a level of 10—20 meters, so they appear higher than they really are. The view of Lübeck with its famous city towers is depicted on a gold commemorative coin of Germany with a face value of 100 €, 2007.
The historic center has many buildings with pointed Renaissance roofs. The main streets in this part of the city are Breite Str. and Fleischhauerstraße, from which there are numerous offshoots — romantic narrow streets and passageways.
Holstein Gate (Holstentor)
The Holstein Gate is the city’s calling card. In the second half of the 15th century, when trade was booming in Lübeck and the rich city was considered a tidbit, a stone wall was built around its perimeter to protect it from attack. The city could only be entered through four gates on each side of the world.
These structures have been partially preserved. On the west side, the Holstein Gate still proudly displays the strength of the city. They are famous all over the world — they are often depicted on souvenirs and postcards. They adorned the 50 stamp bill, which was in use from 1961 to 1990, as well as on the 2 € coin from 2006. When examining the gate, it is easy to notice the slope to the southern tower — the fact that they were built on marshy ground, under the foundations of the towers put beams, which were not in the center, because of this the towers leaned towards each other. In 1933 the reconstruction was carried out and the collapse process was stopped, but the fact that the towers are still standing a bit askew is still visible.
It is now home to a museum dedicated to the history of Lübeck. A miniature model of the city and other exhibits show that it was the center of trade routes.
- The museum is open from January to April — all days except Monday, from 11.00 to 17.00. In other months — daily, from 10.00 to 18.00.
- Admission for adults is 8 €, children under 6 years old are free, from 6 to 18 — 2,5 €.
- Museum website
St. Mary’s Church
The history of this building is inextricably linked to Lübeck itself. The height of the church emphasizes: the city was prosperous and the locals were very wealthy. The construction of such a tall church was costly, bricks were expensive, so not every city could afford it.
The church was built between 1277 and 1351, but there was already a wooden building on the site in about 1160.
The Marienkirche is impressive in its size. The vault of the central nave of the church is 38.5 meters high. It is the highest brick vault in the world. The building is so majestic that it served as a prototype for the construction of 70 other European churches in the Gothic style. The Marienkirche is now the third largest church in Germany, and was the largest when it was built.
Inside the church there is a clock, unusual for a church. One of the dials shows the signs of the zodiac and the other the phases of the moon. The first astronomical clocks were made in the middle of the XVI century. After the war only one dial was preserved, but in the 60s of the XX century they were recreated. The date of Easter can also be known from them.
There are many legends associated with the Marienkirche. One of them is connected with the sculpture of a devil on a stone near the church. According to legend, when the church was being laid, the devil came to the people and asked what to do with the stones scattered on the ground. The clever townspeople offered him to build a tavern. When the construction was finished, the devil realized that he had been deceived and tried to destroy the church building — but the people were clever again and told him that the tavern would be nearby. The devil threw the boulder there.
A year before the Millennium, a German sculptor placed a cute bronze figure of a little devil on a stone near the southern wall of the church. Now almost no tourist passes by without taking a picture. There is an omen: if you rub the horns of the devil, you will definitely become happy.
St. Mary’s Church is open daily and admission is free for the faithful. A sightseeing tour for groups of up to 15 people is available on Saturdays, cost 12 €. The church is closed during weddings and services. You can check the schedule on the website.
St. Peter’s Church
This temple in the old city was built around 1170. It is not known what it looked like at that time. The church acquired the appearance closest to the present one in the XVI century.
The building was destroyed in an air raid (1942) and was not fully restored until 1987.
St. Petri’s Church is a bit unusual. It is a cultural and religious site where faith intersects with science and culture. The building often hosts exhibitions, meetings, scientific conferences and lectures. During Advent, artisans from around the world sell their work here.
The café at the church offers coffee and mouth-watering cakes and pastries any day except Sunday, from 10.00 am to 5.00 pm.
At a level of 50 m from the ground there is a viewing platform, which can be reached by elevator. The observation deck offers a view of the old town, the Trave, the town hall and the gates.
- Admission to the observation deck is 4 € for adults, 2.5 € for children and students. Discounts are available for groups.
- The observation deck is open from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. in January and February, and from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. in other months.
- Website.
City Hall (Rathaus)
Lübeck’s Gothic-style town hall was first mentioned in 1225. The building was used by tanners and was then called Lohhaus.
Originally it was three buildings in Romanesque style, but after a fire in the 13th century only the arcades survived. The town hall took several centuries to build, during which time it was constantly rebuilt.
Here the authorities were located, trade rows worked. It is noteworthy that the doors to the former courtroom are of different sizes. If the defendant was acquitted, he could leave with his head proudly raised through the high door. Those found guilty with shame had to lower their face after passing through the low door.
The Town Hall is still the mayor’s residence. The main entrance is on the Breite St. side. The cost of a tour of the Old Town, where the Town Hall is located, is 12 €. Lasts about 2 hours. All details — here.
St. Jacobi Church
The three-aisled brick church, erected about 1300, with a very beautiful roof, is named after St. James, the patron saint of seafarers and fishermen.
This building survived almost completely during the air raid of 1942, so 2 ancient organs have been preserved here. In the northern chapel there is a memorial to the sailors who did not return from the voyage. Here is a dinghy from the barque «Pamir», which sank in 1957. It was sailing from Argentina to Hamburg when a terrible hurricane hit it and killed 80 crew members, only six survived. The church website is here.
The Church of St. Aegidienus
The smallest of the churches in the ensemble of the famous Lübeck towers. It was first mentioned in 1227. One of the most interesting decorations of the church is a relief depicting Christ, made in the XIII century. There is a mechanical organ here. It was completely renovated in 2003. You can check the schedule on the church’s website.
Lübeck Cathedral
One of the longest church buildings in the country, the cathedral is 132 meters long. The building is adorned with a triumphal seventeen-meter cross, erected in 1477.
Lübeck Cathedral is second only to the Marienkirche in terms of interior decoration. There are two large organs, one dating from 1970 and the second Baroque organ from 1777. There is also a grand piano and a harmonium.
The cathedral’s website.
St. Spirit Hospital (Heiligen-Geist-Hospital)
At the end of the 13th century, a hospital for the poor was built in the old town on donations, where everyone could receive help and treatment. In the 16th century, the hospital was taken out of the church’s possession and a nursing home was opened. In the eighteenth century, hospital wards were reopened on the first two floors, where patients were admitted until 1970.
In 2002, an inpatient social center for the disabled and elderly was opened here.
The historic premises can be visited throughout the year. Admission is free of charge, in summer from 10.00 to 17.00, in winter until 16.00.
Castle gates (Burgtor)
Next to the Hanseatic Museum (Europäisches Hansenmuzeum) is another of Lübeck’s northern gates, in Gothic style with a Baroque dome. It was built in 1444 on the site of an older Romanesque gate with stables next to it.
In the 19th century, the castle gate was to be demolished, but the inhabitants opposed it. In 1912, the German novelist Ida Boy-Ed received a kind of award for her services to Lübeck and her contribution to culture — she could live in the building until her death.
Salt warehouses (Salzspeicher)
These gloomy buildings near the Holstein Gate were the backdrop for the vampire movie Nosferatu, Symphony of Terror, but they were just salt warehouses. Built between 1579 and 1745 in the Renaissance style, they were used to store sacks of salt, the sales of which brought the city huge profits.
Willy-Brandt-Haus.
Willy Brandt was born in Lübeck in 1913 — he served as Federal Chancellor of the Federal Republic of Germany from 1969—1974.
Fifteen years after his death, in 2007, a museum was opened, which was dedicated to the famous native of Lübeck, as well as to the history of Germany as a whole.
Buddenbrookhaus (Buddenbrookhaus)
Not far from the Marienkirche is the home of another famous family — and now Lübeck’s most famous museum. It was built in 1758 and was bought in 1851 by the grandfather of the writers Heinrich and Thomas Mann. The house belonged to the family for 50 years and was the setting for Thomas Mann’s novel The Buddenbrokes, for which he won the Nobel Prize.
The house later housed a bank, and in 1991 the building was returned to the city as the Heinrich and Thomas Mann Museum. The building is under renovation, so check the website for visiting times . All work will be completed in 2023.
European Hanseatic Museum
The Hansa Museum in the Old Town looks like a medieval city wall. A long staircase rises up from the courtyard. You can climb it to an open area and enjoy the view of the Trave River.
The interactive museum tells about the history of the Hanseatic League.
- Open daily, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
- You can take photos in the museum without a flash.
- Admission for adults is 9 €. Details on the website.
Niederegger, home of marzipan.
Lübeck is famous for its marzipan — according to legend, it was invented here: in 1407 there was a famine in the city, there was not enough grain, then the Senate ordered to bake bread from almonds — Marcipanis, which saved the inhabitants.
The most delicious ones are sold in the Niederegger café and store. This is a family business with more than two hundred years of history. In addition to marzipan, they also make delicious cakes and candies. Opening hours here.
Where to stay in Lübeck
Most of the attractions are concentrated in the old part of the city, quite small, so the main principle when choosing a hotel — in walking distance from the center. I will tell you about the most interesting ones, in my opinion.
- Ringhotel Friederikenhof — located a 10-minute drive from the center, you can also walk. The hotel courtyard is immersed in greenery and the facade is reminiscent of a medieval manor house. A room for two in high season costs from 160 €.
- Hotel Anno 1216 is a colorful hotel just 300 m from the Holstein Gate. Set in an old building, some rooms have baroque frescoes on the ceiling. The hotel is only a 5-minute drive from the train station. A room for two in high season costs from 160 €.
- Hotel KO15 is another hotel in the heart of Lübeck. The building is brick, old, and inside there are modern rooms with light-colored furniture. A room for two people costs from 200 €.
It only takes a couple of days to get around the city and explore the architecture and visit its museums. Lübeck is suitable for a day trip from Hamburg — there are only 34 kilometers between these port cities.
You can bring back a souvenir of the famous marzipan, Thomas Mann’s novel «The Buddenbrokes» or a bottle of the local red wine Lübecker Rotspon. It first appeared during the Hanseatic period. Merchants brought French wine and stored it in oak barrels, which gave it a unique flavor. Nowadays Rotspon is served in restaurants, and you can buy it in many stores.
