Christmas and New Year in Lübeck - Christmas markets in northern Germany

Lübeck is located in the north of the country, in the south-eastern part of Schleswig-Holstein and about an hour’s drive from Hamburg. In winter, it turns into a little Christmas fairy tale. During the Advent season, it feels like you’re in Grimm’s fairyland and are about to meet Mrs. Blizzard or Grandpa Nikolaus.

The first mention of a Christmas market in Lübeck dates back to 1648. But it is most likely much older than that. In the 17th century, Christmas markets, or «Weihnachtsmarkt» (Weihnachtsmarkt), operated for a short time — only 2 working days each before Christmas, New Year’s Eve and Epiphany. The market was located near the town hall.

In the nineteenth century, there were more venues. At Christmas markets, traveling musicians entertained the people, and craftsmen showed their skills, sold toys and sweets.

Traders from neighboring lands were treated strictly. They had to prove that they did not resell goods, but made them with their own hands. The duties for outsiders were higher than for local traders. The newcomers could trade only until dark, although the market closed an hour before midnight. Foreigners could also be required to have health certificates. Such rules were in force until 1873.

Lübeck artisans had the same places (wooden booths) where they traded year after year. In the twentieth century, there were more traditional Christmas markets in the city.

Year after year, crowds gathered in pre-Christmas Lübeck, and only in the last few years have the Christmas markets changed a bit. When Europe was hit by a pandemic wave, the Christmas markets did open in 2021, but only to the vaccinated and those who had contracted the disease. Most of the markets are fenced off, and at the entrance they check for proof of vaccination (geimpft) or disease (genesen).

When is the best time to visit the fair

The best time in Lübeck to see all the beauty and get in the holiday spirit is from December 15 to 22. You can get around all the markets in 1—2 days. If you’re lucky, nature will treat you to snow at this time. Frost in December is rare, it is usually cloudy and sometimes rainy. The average daytime temperature is about 6°C. It is in mid-December that most locals and tourists visit the winter markets.

In the evening, life in Lübeck comes alive with 500,000 colorful lights and music. After a day’s work, Germans meet friends for a mulled wine or go out with their families. Children ride merry-go-rounds and make crafts at workshops.

After lunch on December 24, everyone goes home and the town is quiet and empty. On Christmas Day, December 25, stores and fairs are closed.

Advent Markets in Lübeck

The number of fairs and their location can vary from year to year, but they are mostly located in the Breite St. area. In 2021 there were 11 of them. You can check the location and dates on the website.

The Ferris wheel is put up in mid-November on Koberg Square. This is also where the green beauty — a huge Christmas tree — is located.

Each fair sells knitted clothes, angel figurines, toys, dolls sewn by the hands of craftswomen. Here you can find a gift for every taste, and the aroma of cinnamon, caramel and vanilla wafts through the air. Trays with sweets, sausages and fried sausages whet your appetite. Traditional dishes, drinks and pastries are for sale.

In Lübeck, you should definitely try the local marzipan — after all, it was invented here in the early 15th century, when the city ran out of grain during the war. The city authorities found a way out — to make bread from almond flour. This is how the sweet made of almonds, powdered sugar and milk, with various additives, came to be.

Lübeck’s Christmas markets:

1. The classic Christmas fair near the town hall (Markt/Breite Strasse). The most interesting and largest fair is near the town hall. Here you’ll find a succession of stalls — cute wooden houses with Christmas decorations.
2. The historic fair near St. Mary’s Church (Marienkirche). Here you can buy the work of master glassblowers — small transparent candlesticks with Christmas decorations and Christmas tree ornaments made of glass.
3. A forest of 1000 trees on Schrangen. Among the natural fir trees, tables are set up under the roof for families and friends to relax. This fair runs the longest — until December 31.
4. The fairy-tale forest near St. Mary’s Church (Marienkirche). Here are decorated houses in which scenes from fairy tales from famous German literary works are shown. The characters are handmade.
5. The craft market near St. Peter’s Church (St. Petri-Kirche). It sells handmade items made not only by local craftsmen but also by craftsmen from other cities and countries: forged, metal, glass, leather, knitted, amber and ceramic jewelry and unusual Christmas decorations. Open from November 23 to December 5.
6. The fair in Hangar 6, an der Untertrave (Schuppen 6, an der Untertrave). The short and romantic fair runs for only a few days — November 20, 21, 27, 28. On the edge of the promenade, in the historic-maritime barn, live music plays, designs made of wood and metal are sold and waffles with mulled wine are served.
   
7. The craft market near St. Spirit Hospital (Heiligen-Geist-Hospital, Koberg). Another short fair — only 11 days, from November 26 to December 6. Paintings, yarn and fabric products, and the work of artists and craftsmen from many countries are housed in the hospital building, which was built in 1280 with donations from local merchants. The fair is very popular and a portion of the proceeds go to charity.
   
8. Craft market on Koberg (Hoghehus). Open for only 10 days, from November 27 to December 07. Craftsmen also sell their works here — paintings, jewelry, ceramics and woodwork.
   
9. The Niederegger Christmas market (Café Niederegger, Breite Strasse). The Niederegger store and café opposite the historic town hall has been making and selling Lübeck’s famous marzipan since the early 19th century. On Christmas Eve, masters mold almond flour into figures that decorate the store windows and even a nativity scene. On the second floor of the café is the Marzipan Museum (admission is free). The fair runs from November 23 to December 24.
10. The Maritime Christmas Fair (Koberg). Here you are reminded that Lübeck is a maritime city. The fair is decorated in the maritime style — barrels, nets, deck chairs. Children can ride on carousels. From the Ferris wheel you can get a bird’s eye view of the city. Open from November 22 to December 30.
    
11. Wonderland at the European Hanseatic Museum on Untertrave (Europäisches Hansemuseum). Everything for children is here: a nativity scene, workshops on unusual crafts and a skating rink.
    

What to try at the fairs in Lübeck

• Mutzen are puffy mini buns (Mutzen) that look like doughnuts and are generously dusted with powdered sugar like snow. They are sold in paper bags and cost an average of €4.
• Stollen (Stollen) is a Christmas cake with candied fruit, generously dusted with powdered sugar. The shape resembles a baby in a diaper.
  
• Caramelized hazelnuts, almonds, macadamia — a healthy treat of nuts costs about 4 € for 100 g.
  
• Hot bread and flatbread — it’s hard to resist trying them at once. Bread is made with various additives and sprinkles — garlic, spices, seeds.
  
• Ginger cookies and gingerbread — they are beautifully decorated with icing and confectionery sprinkles, strung on bright satin ribbons, and hung on the Christmas tree at home.
  

If you get cold, look for a pot of hot mulled wine (Glühwein). A cup of the aromatic drink costs 3,3 €. Hot mulled wine is poured into clay mugs (2 € deposit) or plastic cups. Most often the mugs have numbers on them to indicate the coming year. Parents usually buy cocoa and hot chocolate for the younger visitors of the market.

New Year in Lübeck

Christmas in Germany is a family holiday. On New Year’s Eve, which is called Silvester, townspeople go out into the street, set off fireworks, and congratulate each other. The holiday was named Silvester after one of the first preachers from the 4th century, who was recognized as a saint by the Christian Church.

At home, the New Year’s table is filled with champagne, punch and, of course, Berliners (Berliner doughnuts), a traditional Christmas pastry. Inside the doughnuts is a sweet jam filling. As a joking tradition, one of the doughnuts is filled with mustard.

Christmas and New Year omens and traditions

• There is a tradition to weave a wreath of conifer branches in the first days of December. Every Sunday of the month one red candle is lit on it. On Christmas Day they burn all together. This wreath is called «Adventskranz». The number of candles symbolizes south, north, west, east, and the lights symbolize the light that illuminates the Earth on Christmas Day.
• In the last days of the year, people get rid of old unnecessary things. According to the beliefs, this will bring good luck.
  
• Christmas is celebrated with the family. The tables are usually full of treats. The main dish is goose (Weihnachtsgans) and red cabbage.
  
• Noisy New Year celebrations with loud music, fireworks and clappers are associated with medieval beliefs. At that time, people believed that noise, merry laughter and the ringing of tambourines would drive away evil spirits.
  
• Gifts for New Year, unlike Christmas, are given purely symbolic or do without verbal congratulations at all.
  
• The holiday table often features baked carp (Karpfen blau) because the scales of the large freshwater fish symbolize wealth.
  

The equivalent of Santa Claus or Santa Claus in Germany is Weihnachtsmann, which literally translates to «Christmas man». He puts presents for children on Christmas night under the tree or in a cobbler.

Before the Weihnachtsman, the holiday hero was called Niemand, which translates to «nobody». Niemand was replaced by St. Nicholas and only then did the current red-jacketed hero appear.

What else to do in Lübeck in December?

Every year an ice rink is installed in Lübeck. This year it was set up outside the city, near the CITTI-PARK shopping center. A two-hour skating session for children up to 14 years old costs 5 €, for teenagers and adults — 7 €. Skate rental — 4 €. For opening hours and details, see here.

Lovers can walk to the city gate (Holstentor). Not far from it is a small archway with a tangled green ball hanging from the top. This is the witch’s flower, or mistletoe. According to legend, if a couple kisses under it, they will be inseparable for life. A wreath of mistletoe is here all year round, but it bears fruit at the end of December — it is covered with white translucent balls.

By train, the resort of Travemünde (Travemünde) is 15 minutes from the city center. It is an old seaport and is connected by ferry to Finland, Latvia, Lithuania and Sweden. There is also a Christmas market right on the promenade by the sea. Also nearby is the Timmendorfer Strand resort. A Christmas music fair is also held here.

You can also visit the Christmas fairs in Hamburg, which is only 70 km from Lübeck. What to see in Hamburg in 1 day

Where to stay

• Radisson Blu Senator Hotel is a 5* hotel in the very center, only 1 minute walk to the railway station. The hotel has a swimming pool. Room for two in December costs from 130 €.
• Hotel Alter Speicher 3* — rooms from 60 € and the Christmas market is only 400 m away.
  
• Atlantik Hotel Lübeck 4* — in the city center, next to St. Petri Church. To the main fair, cafe Niederegger — about 200 m. Rooms in December from 200 €.