Expecting a gray capital, dull nature and embittered people, we were horrified as soon as we passed the border. Expensive cars, black-bearded men with prominent jaws, amazing nature and helpful people. We had not yet started to stop and a young guy was already waiting for us to give us a ride to Tirana.
The first thing that catches the eye are the incomprehensible bunkers scattered throughout the country. They are the brainchild of Enver Hoxha, Albania’s former ruler and dictator, who ruled the country for 40 years from 1946 to 1985. He built more than 750,000 bunkers throughout Albania in case of war.
Now some of them are painted, while others are covered in rust and resemble episodes from horror movies. I hope that the bunkers will not be used for their intended purpose.
Top 5 attractions in Tirana
The country survived several wars, a totalitarian dictator, a period of strict communism and terrible poverty in the second half of the twentieth century, when all the state’s budgets were spent on building military bunkers. Therefore, there are few sights in Tirana, and many of those that are there are related to the communist period.
Now it is pleasant to be in the capital of Albania: unlike the post-Soviet Chisinau, the city is beautiful, surprisingly clean and orderly, only stray dogs run in packs. Tirana is compact, so 3—4 hours will be enough for sightseeing.
The currency is Albanian Lek. Exchange rate: 100 ALL = 0.81 EUR.
Efem Bey Mosque (Xhamia e Et’hem Beut)
The mosque did not succumb to wars, communism and still adorns the center of Tirana, being the oldest structure in Skanderbeg Square. It was closed under communism, but not destroyed like other religious sites. In 1991, the mosque was reopened, and some time later it was recognized as a historical monument.
The interior decoration is not typical for a mosque — it is painted after the religious buildings of Jerusalem. The frescoes depict trees, waterfalls and bridges, which is also rare in Islamic culture.
Now the mosque is open to all comers, except for the hours of service. As is customary, shoes are removed before entering the mosque, which is often resented by tourists.
Near the mosque there is a clock tower 35 meters high — it became so in 1928, when it was enlarged during reconstruction, before that it was lower. It offers a panoramic view of Tirana.
- The tower is open on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays from 09:00 to 13:00 and 16:00 to 18:00.
- The cost of admission is about $1.
Sheshi Skënderbej Square (Sheshi Skënderbej)
The main square of the city is a great place for an evening stroll. It is named after the Albanian hero Skanderbeg, who liberated the country from the Ottoman Empire in the 15th century. The monument was erected in 1968, in honor of the 500th anniversary of the hero’s death.
National History Museum (Muzeu historik Kombetar)
Skanderbeg Square is home to another attraction, the National History Museum with its brightly colored mosaics on the building’s facade. It is the largest museum in the whole country with almost 5000 artifacts. In it you can learn the history of Albania from the prehistoric era to the present day in 2—3 hours. However, the inscriptions on many of the exhibits are in Albanian only.
- Open Tuesday to Saturday 10:00—17:00, Sunday 09:00 — 14:00. Monday is a day off.
- Admission: 200 ALL
- Official site
Enver Hoxha’s Pyramid (Piramida)
In 1988, Hoxha’s daughter opened this pyramid museum in memory of her father, but in 1991, after the collapse of the communist regime, the museum was closed. After a while, a bar was built there, but it didn’t take off. Now it’s an empty glass and concrete building in the center of the city that Albanians have found no use for. I recommend this place: it evokes two feelings when you look at an abandoned, once most majestic, building in the center of the capital.
Cathedral of the Resurrection of Christ (Katedralja e Ringjalljes së Krishtit)
In the very center of the city near Skanderbeg Square is another landmark with unusual architecture — the Cathedral of the Resurrection of Christ. The construction of the cathedral was completed in 2012. The modern church is modeled after classical Byzantine architecture and attracts attention from afar.
The cathedral is open daily from 00:00 to 23:30.
What else is there to do in Tirana?
If you’ve seen the top 5 sights and still have time left, you can:
- Take a photo in front of the sculpture «Mother Albania» (Nöna Shqiper), a 12-meter high monument near the National Cemetery of Martyrs.
- Visit Enver Hoxha’s bunker Bunkart. You can get to it by cab by saying you need to go to the bunkart. Inside there are bedrooms, a shower room and all the necessary supplies in case of war. On the website you can read the history of the bunker and take a virtual tour.
- Take a cable car ride (Dajti ekspres) to Dajti Mountain. A round-trip ticket is 6 €. The cable car is a 5-minute walk from the Bunkart Bunker.
- Find all the tree hugging iron men in the city.
- Have your picture taken in a cloud of twigs, amongst the local kids.
What you need to know about Albania
- It’s dangerous on the roads: drivers are nervous, hot and constantly honking. It is especially scary to drive on serpentines, where drivers violate traffic rules and resent that others drive slowly.
- Cabs here are yellow in color. The drivers are very persistent: they may honk if you don’t see them.
- Water in cafes must be bought separately, it is not served with coffee. In the evening, establishments can only offer a drink list — later locals told us that it is customary for them to have dinner at home and then go to a cafe for coffee or a drink. If you want a snack, ask for the menu separately.
- Locals say that the drug industry is flourishing in Albania — the goods are sent to Italy. The locals, especially the older generation, are wary.
- There is a lot of police in the city, it is quite safe. The locals look at tourists with interest and are always ready to help.
- Albania is a Muslim country, but pork is everywhere. Albanian Muslims themselves like to eat a piece of a product forbidden by religion: «What can I do if pork tastes good? Yes, I read the Koran, but it so happens that I like pork too» — an Albanian’s answer to a question about pork.
- Our budget was limited, so we ate fast food. I really liked the gyrosh, popular in the Balkans: potatoes, meat, vegetables and sauces in a flatbread. Similar to shawarma, but much tastier, probably because of the sauces.
